TILLYA KOSH BRIDAL FOREHEAD DECORATION Retrieved from: Ethnic Jewels
Magazine,2020 There existed in the 19th century in Bukhara the largest and
finest collective of Islamic Artists and craftsmen. The region around Bukhara
has been inhabited for at least five millennia, and the city has existed for
half that time. Located on the Silk Road the city has long been a center of
trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. The jewellery of the region was
luxurious and opulent, reflecting the affluence of the society purchasing them.
During the 19th century the jewellers in the area from neighbouring Tajikistan,
Persia and India numbered in excess of 400. The combined skills, knowledge and
stylistic influences of these craftsmen led to innovative new designs particular
to Bukhara . A new style of Urban jewellery was born. An Iconic piece of
adornment which was greatly influenced by this artistic movement was the Tillya
Kosh (A brides forehead decoration). Early examples consist of a filigree plate
, adorned with precious stones. From nearby Samarkand we see the golden brow
adornments, with massive silver plates which are formed as arched eyebrows.
Decoration consists of Enamel, stone or glass gems, stamped metals and delicate
drops. Within the styling of the Tilya Kosh we see archaic ethnic elements which
have been brought into the realms of high art by the combinations of diverse
creative skills. Indeed it is possible that these rare stunning pieces are a
marriage of styles, the frontal fillets and the floral garlands which had
previously both been seen in the ancient history
