Corrections · 4
Big Wave riders
I think Big Wave riders are a special kind of surfer. No matter if you are in the best physical condition, or if you have been surfing for a long time, you'll never be prepared enough to face 20 foot waves or higher. I think it's a matter of mental preparation: you have to convince your brain and face the fear that wiping out might kill you. I have respect for people who can face those mountains of water, I'm not one of those guys: I'm a bodyboarder, and I have never surfed a wave higher than 9 feet. On last thursday, in Peru, we had a World Class Big Wave tournament, in a spot known as "Pico Alto" about 45 km from Lima city. There were surfers from Australia, Hawaii, United States, Brazil, Chile, Peru. I saw some photos and short videos on the internet, and I found them amazing. Some day, I'd like to witness some of these events close up, I mean, no more than 150 meters (165 yards) away, probably sitting in a jet-sky or in some kind of boat (like in Teahupoo, Tahiti).
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